Byeongnan (Blue Orchid) – Fulfilment in Fabric

Photos by Seongmin Jang (except for the three older ones)

My mother-in-law is a remarkable woman. While raising my wife and her two siblings after qualifying as a professional chef, she decided it was time to turn to her one true passion, painting. With the odds stacked against her success in a male-dominated scene, she kept on practising her art and eventually reached the status of “national artist”, a title conferred upon the very best proponents of the discipline in South Korea. Carving out a niche for herself by opting to paint on fabric, she has opened a successful art school and shop, “Nema Art”, in the centre of her hometown in the mountains, Jecheon. Artistically, she is known as “Byeongnan”, which means “Blue Orchid”. A big thank you to my wife, Dora, for interpreting!

TM: Can you remember when you first became interested in art?

BN: When I was young, children didn’t have any toys. We didn’t even have any paper. Nature was the only thing we had, so I used a sharp stone to draw people, trees, birds…anything I saw…on the ground. It was the most natural thing in the world for me. I always wanted to make something pretty. Like many of the other kids, I used to collect sweetcorn husks, because they were easy to shape into other things.

At school, I started to get textbooks. No matter what the subject was, I cut the pictures out to help me practise drawing. I joined the school art class later on, but I only owned seven coloured pencils. Even though the other kids had more colours to work with, it was my work that the teacher really praised. That made me think I might have some talent.

Portrait of the artist as a young woman while painting, with Mr. Kim and winning a prize

TM: What a wonderful illustration of how a teacher can inspire you! You also qualified as a chef, the benefits of which I’m lucky enough to enjoy whenever I come to South Korea. What made you decide on a career in painting instead?

BN: I decided to train as a chef because I wanted to earn more money for the family. It was also a bit of a trend amongst other homemakers at the time. I managed to pass the cooking exam very quickly, but it just didn’t feel like it was what I was meant to be doing in life, so I quit.

I remembered what my art teacher had said to me in high school. Actually, it wasn’t a normal high school. It was a school connected to the fabric company that would become Samsung, where we worked all day on the factory floor and studied at night. In any case, Mr. Kim was very keen for me to study art at university and even offered to pay for the first year out of his own pocket. It was a wonderful gesture, but I wondered what I would do after the first year was over. I would also have had to find the money to pay for all of the art supplies. That money wasn’t there.

Mr. Kim had supported me as much as he could when I was at school, but I had to think about supporting my family. I had to earn money and contribute.

TM: Sounds like it was a tough decision and a big sacrifice to make. What were the biggest challenges you had to face in becoming an artist? Did you always believe in your ability? What kept you going?

BN: Not having a university degree was the biggest obstacle. People really look down on you here if you don’t have one. On top of that, not having an art degree. Most artists in South Korea study art at university, including pretty much all of those who have become famous and influential.

My way of overcoming this prejudice was through the “National Artist” competitions. Even though I had specialised in Western art at school, I was forced to compete in the Korean art category, because I couldn’t afford the art supplies I would have needed for the Western category. All I needed for Korean art was the colour black.

Ink stick work in black and white

I put all my effort and focus into becoming a national artist. I thought that would mean nobody could look down on me any more. It took fifteen years of really hard work, but I finally achieved my dream. The National Artist card I now possess means I can go to all the most famous museums in the world for free.

Having said that, I still get paid less than other artists with degrees when speaking at events. The prejudice is still there and it’s really hard to overcome. Sometimes I think I should get an art degree myself, but then I think it doesn’t make sense. I’ve already reached a higher standard than the one required for it, and it doesn’t matter to me what other people think.

TM: You do a wide variety of artwork. What is your favourite medium to work in and what is the project you have enjoyed the most so far?

BN: I like working on cotton and silk the best with a combination of ink sticks and any other brushes and colours I have to hand. The texture of cotton allows me to express many things with my ink stick that I can’t express on paper. Silk is wonderfully soft and the way the colour spreads on it fascinates me. Cotton is the fabric of common people, but silk is the fabric of the elite. I want to bring out the beauty in both.

Using an ink stick on cotton brought me pleasure, but it didn’t get much of a reaction from others. However, I had seen some very interesting work on fabric in Insadong in Seoul, which got me interested in the technique. Then I saw some linen scarves on sale for a great price in a Daegu market, so I decided to buy forty, paint them and sell them at an event I hosted for my students. They sold really quickly. It was the first time I had actually made money from art I had created. That was a big confidence boost!

Embracing colour on fabric

With the money I earned, I experimented on a lot of different fabrics, sometimes successfully and sometimes not. When my experiments were successful, I was able to sell them. Now I was making money from my art, I realised I needed a shop. My brother had just come back from China and was available to work and the ground floor below my school had been vacated, so things worked out perfectly.

The new shop needed curtains and this was the first chance I had to work on something so large. The whole process of decorating them worked like a dream and I was delighted with the results. After so much experimentation, to be able to produce something so perfectly first time made me truly believe this was what I was supposed to be doing. Curtains remain my most common order to this day and attract new customers to the shop, so this is the project I will always remember with the greatest satisfaction.

TM: As well as creating art, you are also a teacher. What achievement by one of your students makes you the most proud?

BN: Several of my students have won regional competitions, so I feel like I have done a good job teaching them. Unfortunately, however, none of them are prepared to commit to doing art as more than just a hobby. Nevertheless, they have shared the praise they have received from their children with me for what they have achieved, so I am happy to hear about the joy it has brought to their families.

TM: Looking to the future, what would you like to achieve as an artist? Perhaps you would like to have an international exhibition?

BN: Yes, very much so. Firstly, I would like to do some live art in front of a large audience using bold brush strokes. Then I would like to have an exhibition in Seoul dedicated to my work, so my art could reach a wider range of people. If this helped me to get an international exhibition later, I would be delighted. That kind of exposure would allow me to focus solely on my own art.

TM: The best of luck with that! Thank you for your time.

BN: You’re welcome!

Surrounded by her creations in the Jecheon shop

Where next?
Read about Mark, who’s helping to grow rugby in Poland.
Steve’s mission to support local bands in Poznan and Teesside.

Aardvark: My starter for 10 in Manchester

The Beginnings

I am not sure when I became aware that I was in possession of a more than passable store of general knowledge, but I believe the seeds were planted when, in lieu of a more traditional bedtime story, my father decided to quiz me on world capitals and English football grounds. I also fondly remember a couple of childhood puzzles I had; one contained all the flags of the world and the other was a jigsaw made up of country shaped pieces that needed assembling.

The Tutor Group Quiz

At my secondary school, a Maths teaching quiz enthusiast by the name of Mr. Arnold (nicknamed “Spud” for a reason I never fathomed) ran an annual tutor group quiz competition, complete with ’80s songs that we were all too young to know. With the help of another boy in my year by the name of Duncan Fudge, we took the title either two or three times. I can still visualise our quiz master, sandwich in hand fiddling with the tape deck. The only correct answer I can remember giving, however, is “42”. Not bad, considering how long Deep Thought took to come up with it.

As a result of these victories, I was invited to take part in a national competition for schools based on the University Challenge format representing the Portsmouth Grammar School. Mr. Arnold drove us in the school minibus to Lord Wandsworth College (where Jonny Wilkinson went to school) and then to the prestigious Westminster School (too many famous alumni to mention) in Central London. Remarkably, we emerged victorious from both tussles only to fall to Brighton College in the quarter-finals.

Qualification

Several quiz book gifts from friends and relatives later, I was studying Modern European Languages at the University of Durham and had managed to qualify for the Hatfield College team on the basis of a written test. My performance was just about enough to get me into a play-off quiz for the final university team. An encounter with the infamous Jeremy Paxman was coming closer to becoming a reality.

I did it! A place on the team was mine.

I can still remember the glee with which I shared the news with my bandmates after rushing to a gig. But actually, we had not qualified for the TV programme yet. We still needed to finish as one of the top colleges and universities in the UK in another written test to reach the broadcast stage. Yes, Durham qualified nearly every year, but that was no guarantee we would this time. What if we let the side down?

With that aim in mind and not a few butterflies in the stomach, I boarded the train to Newcastle with my teammates: Mike (reading Politics), Mary (Chemistry and Biology) and Pete (Archaeology), our team captain. The test venue was right next to Newcastle United‘s stadium, still called St James’ Park, well before all the Sports Direct nonsense.

Once on site, we were all given the same test to complete separately and then went on our merry way about half an hour later. We never got any results, privately or individually, but it was enough to qualify. Onwards to Manchester!

Who to take?

I, like most people who enjoy taking part in quizzes, also enjoy making them. So it seemed natural for me to create a quiz to see which of my friends would join me on the trip to Manchester as part of the live audience. It was only later that I realised that I should probably have invited my family along first. Oops. That was certainly some motivation to reach the second round!

Manchester – Round 1

This was my first visit to “Cottonopolis”, home of the darlings of non-Mancunians Manchester United, and the much less successful (at the time) Manchester City, countless excellent bands and Oasis. Engels and Marx also met for the first time in the city, but unfortunately we didn’t have time for much socialising. Instead, we headed over some tram tracks to Granada Studios, the spiritual home of “Corrie“, a staple of British life I have never and will never watch.

Next was make-up time with our adversaries, Bristol. Schott’s Miscellany, a repository of quiz wisdom from the pre-smartphone age, was quickly consulted as we were all “touched up”. Then our team captain, exiting make-up a little too quickly, walked straight into…Paxman. “You’re toast!” was all the quizmaster said.

A good start then.

Once into the studio, we got a quick briefing on the dos and don’ts of live television. Then it was straight into the warm-up. I think I buzzed in incorrectly on two of the three practice starters for 10. So, -10 before we had even got going. Never mind. Now it was for real!

Match 1

If you’ve never watched it before, University Challenge questions are extremely long. I think the idea behind that is to include enough clues that you can at least make an educated guess. However, not switching off and giving up on a question early is vital.

“Findings published in January 2003 (nope) in “The American Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences” (science, definitely nope) show that all mammals, including man, are descended from an early species with genetic similarities to which animal (no idea, how long is this question?), with a Dutch (ok, like German then, got a chance) name meaning “ground pig”?” (Ok, in German “ground” is “Erde”, animal beginning with something that sounds like erd…how about aard…)

“Aardvark?”

And just like that we were 10 points ahead.

I would get two other starters later on. In the first, I recognised a “Kyrie” from the mass setting, and the other answer was “Diego Rivera”, the artist who I just happened to be studying at the time in my “Latin American Texts” module. A stroke of luck!

I was also beaten to the buzzer twice by teammates on “The Twist” (my half-uttered expletive fortunately cut out by the editor) and a cricket umpire’s signal. With our captain being a cricket umpire himself, the bonus points were a formality.

I got overconfident at one stage, buzzing in on a chemistry question I should definitely have left for my teammate, Mary. Fortunately, it didn’t matter in the end, as a tight 40-40 start turned into a 225-70 rout.

Post Match Reflections

Watching back now, there are five questions we didn’t get the points on, including two starters, that I would have got had the quiz been today (Milan Kundera, Dracula, Picasso, Pastiche, The Smiths). However, my inability to recognise songs by The Smiths would be rectified shortly afterwards by one of the audience members.

Surprisingly, that audience member was there supporting Bristol, not Durham. In a bizarre twist of fate, this charming fan, Luke, would become my housemate in Spain a matter of months later. A couple of years on, he would be my housemate, bandmate and co-songwriter in Poland and then Edinburgh. How’s that for a coincidence?

After the quiz was over, Paxman joined us briefly in the green room and quickly downed a can of Foster’s. Quite a surprise, considering his generally staid image. However, after the researchers, many years his junior, had said they were going home rather than out on the town, he made his exit, slightly crestfallen, just as we had to leave ourselves.

We smuggled out a bottle of wine for the train journey back north, and the train conductor was good enough to open it for us when we realised we didn’t have a bottle opener. The evening ended at the Durham Student Union’s “Planet of Sound” (nicknamed “Hounds”), a tradition still going to this day!

Round 2 – Journey from the Swiss mountains

The filming for our second round encounter with London Metropolitan University took place in the summer. The problem with that was I was working in Davos, Switzerland, as part of my year abroad. I had to negotiate time off with my hotel and then travel for hours by train before flying to Manchester. Fortunately, a friend living nearby was kind enough to put me up, as well as some supporters. My parents, who were invited this time, stayed elsewhere.

There were a couple of shocks when we arrived at the studios. The first was for the researchers when I handed them my not insignificant travel expenses. I was reimbursed, but they strongly requested my college partially fund me should we reach the quarter-finals. I would feel bad about using the BBC’s money, but…Gary Lineker’s salary.

The second shock was the age of our opponents. Combined, they must have had about 100 years on us. One was in his 60s, another in his 50s and the others either 30s or 40s. Considering my earlier comment on how many questions I would have got right today (aged 39 rather than 21), it just felt wrong. They would be asked questions on things they had lived through. We had just read about them in books.

Match 2

The questions were much, much harder. I was clueless throughout the first half of the show, but it didn’t stop me buzzing in a couple of guesses on starters when it looked like nobody else would have a go. I watched a movie version of Titus Andronicus a few months later that would have allowed me to answer one starter question correctly, but I had got lucky with Diego Rivera the round before. Swings and roundabouts.

Thanks to my teammates, we remained in the fight until finally…FINALLY…there was a music round! I was quick off the mark on Quentin Tarantino soundtracks and managed to back it up with some knowledge of Danny Boyle movies.

60-90 became 75-90.

Then a turning point! Buzzing in early is always a gamble, because you have to guess what the question is going to be. Knowing an answer is not enough. You need to get it before the other side do.

Our captain went early with his answer to an athletics question…

“Paula Radcliffe”.

Incorrect.

The full question asked for which marathon she broke the world record at, not the athlete who broke it.

London Met got the correct answer of “Chicago” and went on a run that ended with us staring down the barrel of defeat with a 125-70 deficit to make up.

It wasn’t over. Gradually, we clawed our way back to take a 130-125 lead with the gong just 90 seconds away. It would have been 135-125 if my captain had gone with my answer of “Bologna” on one bonus question. I lost my cool a little at that point, but we were still in the lead. Just needed to focus!

Jeremy always increases the speed of question delivery and hurries you for answers as the end approaches. Starter questions came and went which nobody knew on either side, ramping up the tension even more. This was on a knife edge.

Then London Met got a starter. And three rapid bonuses to move 150-130 up. Devastating!

But the next starter was coming. Focus!

We got it! 150-140.

Get the 3 bonuses right and we’re ahead.

GONG!

Out! Just like that! Totally gutted. We had come so, so close, but it wasn’t enough.

Post Match Reflections

Initial reflections: Awful! How could there not be time for our bonuses? How could they let people so much our senior enter this competition? Wasn’t this supposed to be for young people?

Later reflections: Similar. Until today, I had not been able to watch it back and I had totally forgotten how close we came. There were two starters I would have got if I were to do the same show now: Titus Andronicus and the band that Mark E. Smith was in, “The Fall”. I also would have got “Emilia-Romagna” for a bonus five. Combined, that would have been more than enough to see us through. And who knows how many extra questions my three teammates would be able to answer twenty years on?

Having said that, the vast majority of the questions were still impossible for present-day me. Watching now, I was zoning out just trying to follow them. Perhaps the focus I was able to maintain back then was a benefit we had going for us with our relative youth? Perhaps it made us quicker on the buzzer and allowed our brains to retrieve answers from our long term memory faster? Perhaps…perhaps not.

Aftermath

University Challenge is filmed well in advance of it being aired, so it was necessary to wait a few months before we would actually appear on TV. Both contestants and the audience are told not to share the results with anybody in advance. I doubt that happens in reality, considering the number of people involved in the shoot, but I did my best.

Much praise was proffered by the inhabitants of my village of Hambledon for my first round performance after it was aired, just before Christmas. I accepted it gladly, but with the knowledge they would be watching a painful defeat in the New Year.

My grandmother, however, was less impressed, her only comment being to “get rid of that awful beard”. I had actually had to shave for my job in Switzerland, so in the second round her wish came true. Personally, I think I looked better with the facial hair.

One final coincidence to finish this tale. If we had gone all the way to the final and won it, the trophy would have been presented to us by the poet, Benjamin Zephanaiah. Benjamin would later be taught Chinese by my sister-in-law and become the godfather of my nephew. Everything is connected!

PS: In case you think the contestants are being slow on picture rounds, they see the image a second or two after viewers do. We all buzzed instantaneously on the cricket question, but on playback it seems as if we didn’t.



Point Blank Steve

Back when I was living in Krakow, a band search on Myspace (yes, that long ago) brought me to an outfit going by the name of Alien Autopsy, who were plying their trade in Poznan. A few legendary collaborative gigs later, FG and AA were firm friends. Teaming up with the improbably named Jerzy Michal (George Michael) on drums, Steve’s bass held the beat like a champion, particularly on my favourite song “Abducted“, in which the protagonist apologises for his tardiness with the novel excuse of having been waylaid by alien skinheads. Believe it if you will!

I couldn’t help it baby, I was abducted baby…(Music: Alien Autopsy Lyrics: Ignatius Rake)

But bashing the bass was not enough for Steve, who soon found himself at the helm of operations for Point Blank Poznan. I caught up with him over the interweb in his new old home of Teesside.

TM: Steve, what on earth possessed you to start up an English/Polish language local music fanzine in Poland?

SB: Quite simple, really. When I was playing in AA, it got to the point that I was only going to gigs that I was playing at, so starting up Point Blank Poznan seemed a good way to get myself on the scene a bit more, see other bands, meet other acts and do interviews and gig reviews. Since moving back to the UK, doing Point Blank Teesside has been a great way of getting involved in the scene over here.

TM: Why did you choose the name Point Blank?

SB: Back when me and my mate were ‘Us Vs Them’ teenage punks, we had an idea to publish a DIY mag called ‘Point Blank’ in which we’d spew out our socialist ideals and change the world. It never really happened! But the name stuck and I eventually used it for my music zine many years later.

TM: Nice. So how about funding? It can’t be a simple job getting the money to finance a free magazine.

SB: I’ve dabbled with advertisers over the years both in Poznan and here in Teesside. Sometimes the zine pays for itself, sometimes I find myself well out of pocket. It depends. But it’s always been 100% DIY and non-profit. That’s one thing that sets Point Blank apart from most other music publications and I think that’s one of the reasons it’s built up a reputation.

TM: What bands in the Poznan and Teesside areas should we all know more about?

SB: I was a little worried about how the scenes would compare moving from a bustling city like Poznan to Teesside, but there are so many bands here it’s incredible and such a great feeling of community. One positive thing about the Covid virus is that I’ve done a lot more writing and a lot more local bands have come forward for interviews. Some of my favourite local acts here on Teesside are “Benefits”, “The Thieves”, “Ceiling Demons” and “Avalanche Party”. “Bajzel” from Poznan is an amazing one-man act and has to be seen live to be fully appreciated. He’s been to Teesside twice and I’ve helped him get a couple of gigs over here.

TM: How big would you want Point Blank to grow in a perfect world and how do you see the future of live music after coronavirus?

SB: Ideally, you just want as many people as possible to appreciate what you do. The same as any artist, writer, band etc. I guess. I’m just hoping that once things get back to some kind of normality with Covid that the scene will come kicking back as strong as ever.

TM: Thoughts shared by many I’m sure. So a little more about you. Let’s start with an easy one. What’s the best gig you’ve ever been to?

SB: Wow. So I’ll go with Joe Strummer & The Mescaleros at Leeds Town and Country in 1999. Being a huge Clash fan, seeing Joe Strummer performing on stage was very emotional and it was one of the few gigs I’ve actually cried at (when he dedicated ‘Rock the Casbah’ to former Clash drummer Topper Headon). It was a perfect mix of new songs peppered with old classics such as ‘Safe European Home’, Rudie Can’t Fail’ and ‘Bankrobber’.

TM: Which of your own songs are you most proud of?

SB: During my 13 years in Poland I played in three bands, all great for different reasons. With Alien Autopsy, most of the songs were written by singers Shanny and Dave. However, it was when we formed Dead Members that song writing became more a ‘team effort’. So the song I’m most proud of was a Dead Members song called ‘Mary Black’. Me and guitarist Dave got down to the practice room early with an hour to kill. Dave jumped on the drums, I picked up my bass and we banged out this simple tune. The rest of the lads joined us and then the song took shape over the next couple of hours. It was poppy, it was positive and it got a great reception at gigs. I love it to this day as I basically helped write and shape the song.

Steve Blank’s favourite song with songwriting credits

TM: Cheers for the interview, Steve!

SB: Cheers! Take care.

(In a cyclical quirk of fate, I just so happened to interview Steve on the day he was publishing the 19th edition of Point Blank Teesside. He had ended up on a total of 19 with Point Blank Poznan, so the most recent issue brought balance to the schwartz).

I couldn’t resist putting up another AA track, which all those who have worked in call centres will sympathise with.

Spent all day…at the call centre (without social distancing)

FIND OUT MORE
Point Blank Teesside website – Free PDFs
Point Blank Instagram – For bitesize goodness
Dead Members/Alien Autopsy YouTubePlaylist
Bajzel Video (Poznan recommendation)

The Aliens: Steve is on the far left, Dave far right standing, Shanny right at the front and Jerzy Michal far right.

Where next?
Byeongnan’s battle to become a national artist in South Korea
Read about Mark, who’s helping to grow rugby in Poland.

Mark – Developing rugby in Poland

Today we take a look at the world of rugby and how it is continuing to grow outside its traditional heartlands. Our guest is the evergreen Mark Bryan, who I once had the pleasure of playing footie and making music with during my time in Poland.

Back in the day he played scrum-half, but now he’s in more of an ambassadorial role. That doesn’t mean he’s taking things easy. He still attends a training session with the rugby team, shores up the defence of my old football team and gives his drums a pounding once a week.


TM: How did you get into rugby in the first place?

MB: I started playing rugby at 12 years old. My school only offered rugby, cricket and tennis. I played all of them but mainly rugby.

TM: What are you doing rugby related now?

MB: I work with Krakow’s pro Ekstraliga team, Juvenia Krakow RFC, in the role of Ambassador for International Relations. I also organise the Krakow Rugby Festival. 2020 will mark the fifth Men’s 10s and the third Women’s 7s competition.

TM: That’s great. Any links with your hometown, Plymouth?

MB: This year Plymouth Albion RFC (National League 1) sent a delegation to open up relations with Juvenia. Two young Juvenia players went to Albion for training and even got a game! There will be more exchanges in the future.

TM: How do you see the future of rugby in Poland?

MB: Polish rugby has a bright future, especially in Krakow. The Ekstraliga has 9 teams and we get attendances of up to 500 people for our home matches. Polsat TV are now broadcasting Ekstraliga matches live and Juvenia’s grassroots program is well developed, with over a 100 youngsters participating.

TM: Who are you supporting at the RWC?

MB: Naturally I’m supporting England, who will do well to get past the group stage. The rest is, as we say, on the day!

TM: Do you have a second team?

MB: Of course. My second team is Japan because of that memorable try to beat South Africa in 2015

TM: What are their prospects for the tournament in your opinion?

MB: Japan has a sporting chance of qualifying. This group will be decided on who makes the fewest mistakes. Scotland look beatable and Ireland formidable. The game with Samoa will be interesting.
(This interview was conducted before the Ireland vs Japan game, which Japan won 19-12. They were eventually eliminated by South Africa in the quarter-finals).

TM: Cheers, Mark.

MB: Cheers!

FIND OUT MORE
Polish Ekstraliga
Juvenia Krakow
Krakow Rugby Festival
Plymouth Albion RFC

Where next?
Byeongnan’s battle to become a national artist in South Korea.
Steve’s mission to support local bands in Poznan and Teesside.

Who is the Travel Mongrel?

I often refer to myself as a mongrel, due to the rather disparate origins of my family. My mother is American, my father English, but my maternal grandparents were Norwegian and Swedish and my father’s family comes from Wales. Further complications arise from the fact my brother’s wife is Chinese and I was born and grew up in France, not mentioning the fact that I have lived in 10 different countries and never held down a job in England.

I am not a typical travel blogger, as I try to spend as long a time as possible in different countries and try to learn their language as best as I can during my time there. This endeavour is aided by the fact I am both an English teacher and a freelance translator. My interests aside from travel are sport, music and writing.

I decided to start up this site to keep a record of my adventures across the world, share some of my thoughts and give some advice to those hoping to explore the places I have already been to. One small issue is that at the age of 18 I decided not to use a camera and I stuck to that until I was 32, when I was given a free smartphone by a friend. I don’t regret doing that, especially when I see the mess of selfie sticks at tourist spots nowadays, but it means that there are not too many pictures I currently have access to.

Obviously my experiences are personal. I may have come to a place at the wrong time or been unlucky with the people I met, but I try to remain impartial as much as possible. The top ten rankings will change as and when I find a place more deserving than the current spots on the list, although they will retain honourable mention status.

I hope you find the site informative and fun and that it can help you out on your own travel adventures. Please let me know if things have changed in the places I’ve written about by adding a comment.

The Travel Mongrel